Ep 20: Surfactant Myths

For today's episode, we'll be diving into the world of surfactant myths! As we've discussed this month, there are a lot of misconceptions about surfactants. Let's chat about some of the most common ones and wash those rumors down the drain.

Myth 1: If a cleanser tingles, that means it’s working.

Humans are very good at trusting feelings over mechanisms they can't see. Tingling feels like “something is happening,” so the brain assigns meaning to it. This is the same reason people associate burning with exfoliation or stinging with “deep cleaning.” Dermatology literature consistently shows that more intense skin reactions don't correlate with improved outcomes. Looking for products that give a tingling sensation often leads people to:

• Over-cleanse

• Use harsher surfactant systems than needed

• Ignore early signs of irritation

• Confuse inflammation with efficacy

If a cleanser (or any product, really) feels irritating or painful, unless that is the intended outcome of the product, please do not keep using it. Keep your skin barrier safe!

Myth 2: Surfactants dry out your hair because it opens the cuticles

My love, please understand that your hair's cuticles do not open and close like a door.

For context, your hair structure is made up of three main parts: the cuticle, cortex and medulla. It also has an oily film on top called the epicuticle, which makes the hair hydrophobic. The cuticle layer is the outermost layer of the hair, and it's arranged like shingles on a roof. It's there to keep things from entering/exiting your hair strand, and there's a common perception that they open and close, but that's just not the truth. Surfactants can remove the epicuticle and product buildup, but if you use conditioner afterwards, you replace that layer. Perceived dryness after washing usually occurs if you don't sufficiently condition your hair, not because the surfactants damaged the hair fiber itself.

Myth 3: You should avoid surfactants if you have sensitive skin.

Avoiding surfactants isn't beneficial or realistic. Sensitive skin still needs to be cleansed, it just might benefit from a gentler surfactant system than non-sensitive skin would. Choosing formulas with milder surfactants or different textures (like milky or creamy) can help people with sensitive skin wash properly without irritating their skin barrier.

Myth 4: Cleansers don't matter because they're rinse-off products.

There's a big difference between cleansers for the face and cleansers for the hair (aka shampoo). Shampoos don't really matter much because the hair is dead, and most of the benefits for your hair will come from conditioners, leave-on products, etc. The only real benefit of shampoos is to cleanse the hair, so it doesn't really matter what's in your shampoo, as long as you like the results it gives you.

Facial or body cleansers, on the other hand, do matter even though they're rinsed off. There's a lot of benefit to using cleansers, especially if they have actives; for example, someone with sensitive skin might not be able to tolerate a leave-on Benzoyl peroxide product, but could see anti-acne benefits by using a Benzoyl Peroxide cleanser. Cleansers can decrease contact time with harsh ingredients, and therefore still deliver a lot of benefits without irritating the skin.

Myth 5: Natural surfactants are always gentler than synthetic ones.

WRONG! The origin of a surfactant has basically nothing to do with how strong it is. Some plant-derived surfactants can be very strong and irritating, while many synthetic surfactants are specifically engineered to be gentle and reduce irritation. The source doesn't equal safety, the actual structure of the ingredient does. For more information on the general differences between Natural vs Synthetic ingredients, check out BXB Episode 11.

Myth 6: When double shampooing, the first shampoo removes dirt/oil, and the second shampoo actually cleanses your scalp.

This is a pretty common misconception but it actually isn't true! Surfactant either bind to oil or air. When you shampoo, the surfactants bind to the dirt and oil in your hair and remove it. This is why it's common for your shampoo to not lather very much on the first wash, because it's attaching itself to the dirt and oil on your scalp. On the second wash, however, the shampoo usually foams a lot more, because there is less oil to attach to, so now it's attaching itself to air and foaming.

You can double shampoo if you like the results it gives you; I personally like to double shampoo because it feels like a good insurance policy to make sure everything is removed from my scalp. However, I don't do it because the second pass "cleans my scalp" like many people believe. Do what's right for you, but do it for the right reasons!

Wrap-Up

There are a lot of misconceptions about surfactants, but overall they are great ingredients that are used in tons of applications and are extremely beneficial in everyday life.

Bibliography

1. Ananthapadmanabhan, K. P., Moore, D. J., Subramanyan, K., Misra, M., & Meyer, F. (2004). Cleansing without compromise: The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1002.x 

2. Coderch, L., Alonso, C., García, M. T., Pérez, L., & Martí, M. (2023). Hair lipid structure: Effect of surfactants. Cosmetics, 10(4), 107. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040107 

3. Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc. (n.d.). Surfactant. In Wikipedia. Retrieved January 16, 2026, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfactant 

4. Instagram. (2025). Instagram post [@sciencemeetscosmetics]. Retrieved January 16, 2026, from https://www.instagram.com/p/C50vpNkIMzI/

5. Instagram. (2025). Instagram post [@sciencemeetscosmetics]. Retrieved January 16, 2026, from https://www.instagram.com/p/CopcvH_IjTJ/